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10% PVA (Elmers glue) mix 90% water

Simon. Gosling

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May 5, 2025
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Thin coat onto the bed, it dries off as the bed heats before the print. Solves most adhesion problems I have had and lasts several prints. Those 'glue stick' type bed adhesives you can buy are very good also, but PVA is cheaper.
 
Thin coat onto the bed, it dries off as the bed heats before the print. Solves most adhesion problems I have had and lasts several prints. Those 'glue stick' type bed adhesives you can buy are very good also, but PVA is cheaper.
Oh yeah, PVA is a lifesaver for adhesion, especially on glass beds!
I've used that exact ratio (or even slightly thicker, like 15%) for years. I really like it because it's so cheap and effective.
One tip from me is to make sure your bed is super clean before applying the PVA, otherwise, you're just gluing it to dust
 
A thin coat of PVA glue on the print bed works great, it dries as the bed heats up and solves most adhesion issues , lasting for several prints. Glue stick adhesives are also effective but PVA is a cheaper option that does the job well.
 
Curios about those who tried it. What's the difference between both? I was told early on in my so called career that PVA will be a lifesaver, but I never got around to seeing if being cheaper is really worth it.
 
When it comes to PVA versus glue sticks, the main difference is cost. They share similar chemistry, but glue sticks are already mixed and super convenient to use. On the other hand, PVA allows you to have more control over the consistency and only costs a few cents per use. Ultimately, both options are effective, it just comes down to whether you prefer convenience or saving a bit of money.
 
A thin coat of PVA glue on the print bed works great, it dries as the bed heats up and solves most adhesion issues , lasting for several prints. Glue stick adhesives are also effective but PVA is a cheaper option that does the job well.
Agreed, PVA is cost-effective and works great. Just make sure to use a thin, even coat and let it fully dry before printing. The water-soluble cleanup is nice too. Do you know that for really stubborn materials, hairspray can be another cheap alternative that works similarly?
 
Yep, hairspray can be a great alternative too, particularly when dealing with those tricky filaments. Just remember to use it sparingly to prevent any buildup. That said, PVA is still the go-to for easy removal and consistent results
 
Totally! A little PVA glue on the print bed is a great way to make sure your prints stick. It dries up nicely with the heat and can keep working for several prints. Plus, PVA glue gets the job done without costing you as much as those glue sticks.
Totally. A little PVA glue on the print bed is a great way to make sure your prints stick. It dries up nicely with the heat and can keep working for several prints. Plus, PVA glue gets the job done without costing you as much as those glue sticks.
 
Yep, hairspray can be a great alternative too, particularly when dealing with those tricky filaments. Just remember to use it sparingly to prevent any buildup. That said, PVA is still the go-to for easy removal and consistent results
Thanks for the tip! I mostly use glue stick on my Ender 3, but I want to try hairspray especially for PETG and TPU. Does it work better on glass or PEI beds? And does buildup mess with print quality later on? I'm just starting to try harder filaments, so this really helps!
 
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